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Historic Places: Famous Landmarks in Culion, the Island of No Return
Palawan has more to offer than world-class beaches with Culion and its historical landmarks!
By: Keith Anthony S. Fabro | July 06, 2020
Due to quarantine measures in place, some of these destinations might be temporarily closed. Please coordinate with the management or local government before visiting.
The La Immaculada Concepcion Church has witnessed all of Culion’s rich history.
Photo by Keith Anthony S. Fabro
Once the world’s largest leper colony, Culion had been infamous for earning the monikers “Island of the Living Dead” and “Island of No Return.” Approximately 200 nautical miles southwest of Manila, Culion’s remoteness was deemed strategic in preventing the spread of the disease that affected hundreds and thousands across the country in the early 1900s. No one dared to go to this place during those dreadful years, aside from dedicated health workers who played pivotal roles in the healing of lepers who were sent there for treatment. But when it was declared leprosy-free in 2006, this island town in northern Palawan has since sprung back to life.
Now rising as one of the vibrant eco-historical destinations in the province, travelers keep coming back to Culion to learn of its rich yet grim past, explore its historic places, and bask in its underrated natural wonders. It’s definitely an ideal add-on to your Coron getaway since it’s just a three-hour fast craft ride from the said bustling tourist town. In Culion, you are treated to some peace and quiet as you travel back in time with the welcoming locals. For a few of its must-see historic places, check out our list below.
1. Culion Museum and Archives
A replica of a room where a leper patient lies on his deathbed can be seen within the premises of the museum.
Image: @hi_euf
The Culion Museum and Archives is situated within the town’s hospital and sanitarium compound. It’s a treasure trove of vital information dating back to 1906 when the leprosarium was established, with the arrival of 370 lepers from Cebu via two Coast Guard ships named Polilio and Mindanao. Inside the two-story museum, you can see preserved items like old photos that tell the harrowing stories of patients who were forcibly separated from their families until a cure was discovered in the 1980s.
Other interesting finds on display are the medical and laboratory equipment that played significant roles in treating the leprosy patients. The structure was also built in honor of health workers and missionaries who heeded their calling of spreading hope throughout the beleaguered leper colony. Coincidentally, it was launched and became one of the highlights of Culion’s centennial celebration in May 6, 2006, the same year the island was declared leprosy-free by the World Health Organization. The Culion Museum and Archives is open from 9 AM to 11 AM and 1 PM to 4 PM from Monday to Friday, and has an entrance fee of PhP150.
2. La Immaculada Concepcion Church
The intricate interior of La Immaculada Concepcion Church wows churchgoers and visitors.
Photo by Keith Anthony S. Fabro
The La Immaculada Concepcion Church, also known as Culion Church, once served as a fortress for the islanders. It was built by Augustinian missionaries who set foot in Culion in 1622; the same missionaries who reached out to local communities to spread Catholicism. Perched on a hill facing the sea and nearby islands, the fortress was finished in 1740, safeguarding the community against moro raiders. Almost two centuries later in 1933, the Jesuits converted it into what it is now today: a church that leaves visitors in awe for its magnificent classic design.
The base and surrounding walls of Culion Church were hewn from live corals but concrete was poured in some areas. On the overhead center part of the two-tiered facade lies the statue of the Virgin Mary, flanked by two white-painted arch windows. Atop the center of the arch-shaped crimson roof stands a cross. To its right lies a belfry with a cross on its pinnacle, as a Palawan cherry blossom tree stands to its left. Inside, a maroon-painted ceiling adorned with chandeliers and other visually appealing details will catch your attention. At the altar that’s just as beautiful you’ll see the statue of the crucified Jesus Christ.
3. Fort Culion
Fort Culion has stood the test of time for over 200 years.
Image: @ericpoliquit
Fort Culion is just beside the La Immaculada Concepcion Church that sits atop a hill overlooking the sea and surrounding islands. It was built sometime in 1740 by the Augustinian missionaries in defense against the moro pirates who repeatedly raided the island. Aside from the sweeping sea view, you can find a couple of antiquated canons here that still stand as testaments of how the islanders fought back during the raid attempts.
4. Aguila Viewpoint
A magical sunset view welcomes early risers who hike up Aguila Viewpoint.
Photo by Keith Anthony S. Fabro
For a breathtaking view of the island, hike up Aguila Viewpoint. Accessible via more than 330 concrete steps, Agila Hill is best to climb early in the morning to catch the sunrise, which Culion is becoming famous for. The staircase going to the top is also lined with trees and shrubs, giving your strained eyes some rest. Additionally, this attraction features the iconic Christ the Redeemer statue standing above the white-painted stones that form a huge eagle, which is part of the logo of the Philippine Health Services (now the Department of Health). It is believed that the symbol was made by former leprosy patients to show gratitude towards the agency.
5. Pulang Lupa Viewdeck
Pulang Lupa Viewdeck makes spectators self-reflect as they bask in nature’s grandeur.
Image: @chardhays_12
Pulang Lupa Viewdeck is a scenic hill which literally got its name from the red soil that can be found there. Overlooking the town proper, it’s the place to be for chasing stunning sunrise and sunset views, and for overnight camping and stargazing when on the island. To get here, you can hike for one to two hours or ride a motorbike for 30 minutes through a rough dirt road. Before you reach the hill, you will pass by a “leper only” cemetery, which is one of the significant markers in town. Pulang Lupa is also where you can find the native Pitcher plant species that sprouted on its sprawling grassland.
For more of Palawan’s uncharted locations, visit Yoorekka.com.
6. Marine parks and islands
Pass Island is one of the many island destinations you can visit in Culion.
Image: @janosunk
Culion boasts of several marine parks hosting coral reefs that are incredibly vibrant. These are all intact teeming with schools of fish and other marine life, thanks to the island’s decades of isolation when it was designated as a leper colony. Some of the marine parks perfect for snorkeling and scuba diving are Bogor, Buyang Lutang and Punta Dinamita, as well as the Crowning Glory where marine turtles and dolphins have been spotted. You can also avail of tour packages that include Pass Island, Malcapuya Island, Banana Island, Ditaytayan Island, and many more.
Next time you visit Palawan, try experiencing an eco-historical adventure in Culion to learn of its rich history and explore its must-see destinations!
Stay safe as you travel! Make sure to follow social distancing protocols and observe health precautions wherever you go. Have a great trip!
This article was originally published in Yoorekka on November 11, 2019.
About Keith Anthony S. Fabro
Keith Anthony Fabro is a freelancer based in Narra, Palawan. He explores the great outdoors, talks to strangers, and designs promotional materials for a living. In his free time, he practices mindful meditation or reads anything about personality psychology and the natural environment, all while listening to mellow music. When inspiration strikes, he writes spoken poetry. He can live with just water and chocolates.
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